Jo Malone's Wood Sage & Sea Salt

The new cologne from Jo Malone London is the wonderful, totally different, Wood Sage & Sea Salt. Totally different because there are no floral notes in it at all, which is very unusual in fragrance.

Wonderful because it is evocative of those last days of summer that we all love to cling on to, but not the memories of those stunning sunsets in our holiday paradise, but more the memories of childhood; of those summer days at the very British beaches, surrounded by rushes and green grass, windswept shores, waves breaking white, cliffs behind us, chills beginning, and big cosy jumpers being pulled up. It makes you think of autumnal walks along the coast, splashing in the sea, with wellies and raincoat on!

This new scent from Jo Malone London will evoke your own memories. Mine are of changing on the beach, wrapped in tartan blankets, brushing off the sand, before piling into the car and heading for fish and chips on the way home.

The notes of this unusual, but addictive scent are Ambrette Seeds at the top, Sea Salt at the heart, and Sage at the base. It has a clean, fresh, outdoors, autumnal scent, with those lingering memories of a British summer. It’s a gorgeous, joyful scent, and one that I am absolutely layering on!

Here’s a Q&A with Master Perfumer, Christine Nagel, on how she created Jo Malone’s Wood Sage & Sea Salt Cologne.

How did you feel when Jo Malone London asked you to create a fragrance inspired by the British Coast?
When I received this brief I knew it was something unusual; another great challenge. I was given some photographs of the English coast and old postcards to look at with rugged cliffs and moody skies. It was sepia photography and the colour was very emotive. When I looked at these pictures I instantly felt the sensation of sea spray, romantic but natural.

I loved the concept straight away because it was so different. The brief was for a mineral scent rather than an aquatic, which is the normal approach to a fragrance inspired by the sea. The Jo Malone Studio took me to the coast in March 2012, off season. It was a cold, foggy day and I could smell the sea spray and hear the sounds of the waves crashing against the cliffs. There were different herbs growing and pieces of driftwood, an interesting source of inspiration too. I could taste the sea salt, see the long grasses and driftwood on the beach; this was the start of the story for me.

When you think of the British coast how do you feel emotionally?
It’s quiet, but with many different colours. Rich and very sophisticated. I picture gentle tonalities, grey-blues, nothing bright. Walking around, I experienced the sea air and spray and the mineral texture of sand. This was a fantastic source of inspiration leading me to the unexpected rather than working around sunshine and an aquatic note.

So now you have the mood and this idea of the English coast, how do you decide which key ingredients?
The salt element was a key departure. The salty taste sensation is very familiar to us all, but in aperfume it has to be more subtle. A salty aroma doesn’t usually work in perfumery, so I had to use a different ingredient to achieve it. I enjoyed mixing the salty element with the mineral one; this was the challenge. The mineral aspect is another texture that’s unexpected and unusual. The other important element was the sage. This is also rare in perfumery and here it makes up part of the woody element of the fragrance. It’s normally found in aromatic fragrances but sage in a woody
fragrance creates interest and adds sensuality.

And for the rest of the fragrance?
In general in top notes citrus notes are most often used to add freshness to a fragrance. For this one however, I used rare ambrette seed, from a plant in the hibiscus family. This is a very expensive raw material that gives texture while still being fresh. It is enveloping and cocooning. A touch of buchu
leaves adds another unexpected twist. Very simple, very chic. I also added a trace of dried fruit accord in the heart of the fragrance to compliment the sea salt and mineral accords. Plum gives a sensation of comfort and softens the fragrance. Dried fruit is important for the blend too; it is textural. The base notes contain the sage, as well as guaiacwood which is textured and sensual. On my travels I saw a lot of driftwood on the beaches; when you smell the wood, it is extremely sophisticated. The complex combination of the wood and the sea is at the core.
There is a trace of musk as well, a signature for me, which adds volume.

Why sage and salt? Why do you think it’s such a great combination?
I think it’s new and different. It is interesting because the scent works for both men and women. It has masculine attributes but also has a very soft and feminine side. These two characteristics are apparent in the sage too. I love the ambiguity.

Have you worked with sea salt before?
No, it was new for me and it’s rare in perfumery. I am always discovering new ingredients. Wood Sage & Sea Salt is incredible; it is very poetic, romantic and different.

What does the salt bring to the fragrance?
The salty part gives the fragrance an unusual and special character. It’s very different. When you smell it, you are curious. It provides purity and clarity as well as more texture and freshness. It isn’t easy to explain but I love when the raw materials are different, creating opposite sensations, but blend well together. Ambrette seed and salt go very well together. It is comparable to tequila in this sense as tequila and salt work together. It is elegant and special, yet comfortable and different.

The brief was for a mineral fragrance rather than aquatic, how did you work this?
There are a lot of ingredients available to create an aquatic accord, but not as many for a mineral accord. I had to research to obtain this texture. The positioning of Jo Malone London is very British, with a curiosity. There is a special note and a lot of unexpected textures, new ideas and sensations.
These things are very important. I love the challenge that each project with Jo Malone London brings. In this case, it was impossible to work around a simple aquatic note.

Was there one point on the journey that was the hardest or most challenging?

I had to do a lot of research when I started. The idea of the English coast was so new and after visiting it I had so many ideas. I then created 20 different accords, more options than I usually give. We then fell in love with one of them and continued refining it. I wanted to translate a special moment with the colours and odour, something fresh. The result is Wood Sage & Sea Salt.

Who would wear this fragrance?
A person who wants authenticity and sophistication. Natural, fresh sophistication. A free-spirited liberty, freedom and joy.

Is there reason that there no floral notes in the fragrance?
This was a conscious choice. It is possible to create a fragrance with feminine appeal without a flower but it can take time, it’s like making a pudding without sugar. On my travels to the coast, I did not see a flower. I did not feel therefore, that it was necessary to include a floral note.

What is your favourite fragrance combination for Wood Sage & Sea Salt?
I have tried this with lots of different fragrances but my favourite is with Peony & Blush Suede. The touch of the floral element and texture of the suede makes it a great combination. It also works well with Lime Basil & Mandarin. I started combining with this, merging the freshness of the lime with the ambrette seeds and the basil with the sage, which was also a very good blend.

Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt Collection is available from September, at Jo Malone stores and jomalone.com. Cologne 30ml, £40, 100ml, £82, Body & Hand Wash, £28, Body Creme, £50, Home Candle, £40